Sunday 1 September 2013

13 August – 16 August 2013 – Karijini National Park

We were packed up nice and early this morning as we’d heard that in order to get a campsite in Karijini that you had to get there pretty early.  We arrived at the entrance to the park and continued on to the manned Visitor Centre in order to sort out payment for the camp area.  We chose to pay an annual fee to visit all the Western Australian national parks and then simply pay the camping fees in the future if we camp in them.  We drove onwards to Dales Campground and pulled in to visit the Campground Hosts so that we could be allocated our campsite.  In doing so, the girls were given some booklets to fill in for a Junior Ranger’s award.  We went to our camp in Cockatoo Loop and set up while the kids were busily working away at their information booklets.  The schoolwork came back out and we got underway with all their maths work while we also waited to see if the Woods family would be joining us today.  It was mid-afternoon when the Woods family pulled in to the campsite next to us, just on the other side of the camp toilet – therefore we both had an ensuite site… living in luxury - lol!  Once they’d set up their camp we all caught up on the “where’s?” and “what’s” of the past few days and planned our next couple of days together.


Wednesday morning we were all up bright eyed and bushy tailed ready for a big day of adventure.  We started with a walk through the car parks and over to the lookout overlooking Fortescue Falls.  From here it was a rapid descent down the side of the rocky hill.  Our first stop was at Fern Pool which is a special place for the aboriginals as, due to their stories, it was created by a great serpent.  The sign did ask that when swimming, that you enter the water quietly by using the ladder.  However, before we had a chance to discuss this, Josh was stripped down and diving on it – the way that Josh does.  Mick and all the kids decided to enjoy the lovely cool water too so in they all went swimming over to the waterfall.  Sue and I however, decided that we’d wait for the sunshine to warm us up a little more before we would go swimming.  Once everyone was dressed again we set off past Fortescue Falls which were cascading gently over the rocks and into the large pool below.  Our walk continued and the sun was really beaming down as we wandered further into Dales Gorge.  At the end of this very pretty trek we landed ourselves at Circular Pool.  The kids clambered in and you could see by how slow they were getting in, that the water was icy cold.  The adults were all next in and it was bloody freezing.  Sue and I and some of the kids swam over to the waterfall simply to warm up by moving around, but once a few photos had been taken we were back out of there really quickly.  Our sin was covered in goose bumps and even had a red tinge to it due to the water being so cold.  We had lunch here and then continued on.  A short walk back the way that we came from, and we veered to another track which took us back up the very steep side of the mountain towards the Three Ways Lookout where we could actually look down over the Circular Pool.  We hadn’t realised at the time that there was a lookout above this swimming hole so lucky we didn’t go skinny dipping.  Our return walk was along the rim of the gorge that we’d just been walking in.  This took us back to the lookout over Fortescue Falls and then back to our camps.  After a bit of relaxing back at camp, we waited for the heat to die off a bit before we all walked back to the Fern Pool where we could all go for a refreshing dip.  The water was fantastic and cool and sitting under the waterfall was even a little warm.  After a good cool down it was time to return to camp to get dinner organised.  Little did we realise how hard the hike up the hill would be.  It was a long way and again very steep (as you’d expect trying to climb out of a gorge) and the rocks / steps were about knee high – so it took quite a bit of effort to climb back out.  We could have done with another swim by the time we reached the top.  It was fairly late by the time we’d eaten dinner and cleaned up so we all hit our beds pretty early in preparation for another busy workout day tomorrow.







The following morning, our legs (surprisingly) were feeling good so we were ready after breakfast to hit the rocky paths again.  We were driving to two big gorge walks today, the first was Weano Gorge, but first we had to check out Oxer Lookout.  It was simply stunning!!  The gorges from this lookout appear to go on forever and it’s a bloody long way to the bottom. It is such a challenging area, that at this lookout lies a Celtic cross in memory of a rescue worker that died whilst undergoing a rescue operation which took place in Hancock Gorge almost ten years ago.  This walk began with a fairly flat descent but gradually got a bit hairier.  We stopped at the first water crossing and took off our shoes, socks and shorts to wade through the waist height water before climbing along the side of a rock wall endeavouring to hold on tight with our fingertips to avoid falling back into the icy cold water.  However, after putting our gear back on and walking a bit further along we came to another water crossing and figured that keeping our shoes on would be more time efficient and a little easier on our feet with the sharp rocks underfoot.  The gorge narrowed and we had more scaling of walls to traverse along and the cliffs surrounding us were thousands of layers of thin rock all pressurised together – it was really quite amazing and pretty!  We decided to leave our bags at this point and just take our cameras as we continued on the walk.  It wasn’t long and we reached the most difficult section of Weano Gorge, a Class 5 walking track!!  The adrenalin was pumping and Sami’s fear began to set in.  We were looking at an extremely narrow section of gorge with water running along the rocks under our feet.  At the end of this narrow section was a handrail drilled into the rock work to help us along BECAUSE the gorge opened up and dropped away into what appeared to be a large arena which housed a very cold pool of water.  The 5 kids were all doing a fantastic job and enjoying the challenges that this walk were throwing at them but Sami’s fear was building on this walk.  The Woods’ family went first and got down safely – our turn.  Josh and Zoe went first and Sami and I followed, it was a constant reassurance to Sami that she was able to do this and to simply take her time, grip onto the handrail tightly and shuffle her feet along the slippery ground to ensure she wasn’t going to slide straight down.  We got near to the drop away section and I climbed past Josh so he could finish helping her down the handrail safely.  She made it – but we weren’t at the end yet!  In order to reach the end of the actual gorge we had to swim through the freezing cold pool of water which then continued through another narrow section of water to the end.  We jumped in and cold is an understatement, we were constantly shivering!  The girls wanted to get out but I just kept convincing them that the faster that we swam, the faster we could go back and get out (even though we didn’t have clothes or towels with us – they were back at the drop off area with our bags).  We just had to keep moving to get to the end so that we could say we did it and it felt really good for us all to achieve such a challenging walk!  It was time to swim back and Sami was arguing with me, she just didn’t want to get back in the cold water.  But, it was either stay there where she was already shaking or get back in and swim back, climb the rail and back out of the gorge to find our clothes – she jumped in the water!  We made our way back through the many water holes, picked up our clothes and towel, and continued on our journey back out of the gorge – quite chuffed!!  The next part of our day was heading into another gorge, this time it was Hancock Gorge.  Another difficult one which reached a Class 5 hike.  We set off with the lovely Woods’ family again climbing deep down into the gorge before reaching a ladder that we had to climb down, no problem.  Again, we had many water crossings and similar scaling of rock ledges and walls, our fingers were getting a good workout, not to mention the rest of our bodies.  An amphitheatre appeared where we decided to sit and wait for another group to climb out of the end of the gorge – which meant we would have the pool at the end to ourselves for a little while.  It was a lovely sunny spot to sit and get warm, tall red and black gorge surrounding us along with a very small waterfall to sit and admire.  Once the coast was clear, our two families wandered into Spider Walk, named aptly due to the fact that you need to hold the side walls with your hands and your feet and climb above the flowing water just like a spider – that was a bit of fun.  At the end the ground beneath us slowly slipped away forming a small waterfall which the kids had fun sliding along and then into the lovely pool below (warmer than that at Handrail Pool).  Josh was first in – no surprise there – and then the rest of us followed!  We had quite a while alone enjoying the pool before another group joined in, it was a great spot as long as you didn’t go past the danger sign to the next level below, and we all obeyed these rules.  We began our journey back out through Spider Walk, Josh carrying Sami over his shoulder along the slimy ground which I shuddered at.  Back through the water spots and over and along the rock walls til we reached safety once more.  On our drive back to camp this afternoon, we called in to EcoRetreat to see if we were missing out on anything but it was really just another camp ground but it did have a restaurant and bar a few other comforts.  We picked up some ice creams and made our way home.  After dinner tonight, the Woods family and ourselves sat down to an entertaining game of Family Trivial Pursuit in pairs.  Well done to the two ten year olds Zoe and Samuel for winning the game, even though the rest of the teams had an adult.  We all slept well tonight…..


























Our final full day in Karijini consisted of, you guessed it, more walking!  Today we had Knox Gorge, Joffre Gorge and Kalamina Gorge in our sights.  First up the nice, “easy”, Class 4 walk of Knox Gorge.  Again the lookout was something special so we grabbed the usual pictures before travelling in a southerly direction to the earth’s core, nearly straight down again.  This time however, underfoot was a lot of loose rocks which made it quite a challenge not to slip over.  The rock cliffs were again layers and layers compound against each other and appeared to be like building blocks all stacked on top of each other due to the straight edges.  There was also more water, but this time we didn’t have to wade through it, we were able to stick like glue to the rock edges and manoeuvre our way past.  It took us much less time on the way in than the trek estimate of 1.5hrs each way.  We reached the end and there was a lovely swimming spot, this time surrounded by rounded edged layered rocks, but being quite early in the morning, I chose to stay out this time.  I’m sure you can guess who was first in.  All the boys went swimming while us girls looked on.  Josh even ventured down towards the Class 6 area, the very narrow end of the gorge passed the DANGER (Gorge Risk Area) sign to have a closer look and get some photos.  We had our morning tea and started to make our way back outwards and upwards.  It was a steep climb but slow and steady won the race.  We had a breather at the top and then made our way across to the Joffre Gorge lookout.  Again it was amazing, the view below us was amazing and the water was so green!  I was looking forward to a swim at this stage but seeing the bright green water turned me off a little.  This walk was meant to be a Class 4 and 5 and supposedly would take us 4 hours round trip – off we started to see how we compared to the normal.  We made a start on the walk, this time the rock surrounding us was quite square and bulky.  We got to about half way down the gorge which meant we were passing the top of the flowing waterfall.  From here the track got a bit trickier and an adult took the lead, I remained at the back as the anchor.  We all very carefully climbed down some steep descents, the kids with a bit of help from the longer legged adults.  Eventually, we made it to the bottom where the lovely crystal clear pool sat but as it was in the shade, it was looking quite cool.  I tossed my shoes to the side and went off for a paddle, it was way too cool to dunk right under though.  After a bit of lunch and enjoying our surrounds, we got packed up and started the journey back out.  We were all a little amused when Samuel went racing along the edge of the rocks and had a slight slip right into the fairly shallow pool of water next to it.  He was very quick to stumble back out (until he had to fetch Susan’s sunglasses).  We made it back out of the entire gorge in good time, well within the 4 hour recommended time.  This in turn left us with plenty of time to head to Kalamina Gorge which was not meant to be too difficult.  This was a 3km return walk but was not too steep or dangerous, really a fairly easy walk compared to the previous ones.  We started with the pool on our right at the bottom but decided not to swim here and instead look further down the left end of the gorge to find somewhere for a late afternoon swim.  It was an extremely pretty walk but we struggled to find a lovely deep pool here to cool in.  We thought about returning to camp and heading to the Fern Pool for a dip but the climb back up would have been way too much effort after our last three days.  Instead we got back to camp, had a bit of a wash and enjoyed a few quiet drinks chatting about the wonderful places that we’ve seen and in great company of new friends as well as all that we and our kids (at the ages of 7, 8, 9, and two 10 year olds) have achieved to get through these walks safely.  It has been truly fantastic!












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